Restaurant Report: Symposia by Papas

The latest restaurant from the Papas family brings fine-dining Mediterranean fare to Greektown.
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Photograph by Gerard + Belevender

Hanging in the dining room of , the new restaurant at the in Greektown, is a striking piece of art that captures the energy of a colorful, modern, and vibrant city. Crowds of people fill the streets of Detroit, with the skyline looming large in the back.

The piece is by St. Clair Shores-based , which designed the restaurant, inspired by the illustration 鈥淪tanding People鈥 by Japanese artist Tetsuo Aoki.

鈥淚t juxtaposes people, and then you can see听the city of Detroit laid in the background,鈥 says Atheneum Executive Officer Athina Papas, who adds that the work is representative of the vision behind Symposia: bringing people to Greektown and offering a unique dining experience. 鈥淚t鈥檚 a nice tie-in to what we鈥檙e trying to do with bringing in different regions of Europe but also staying true to the city.鈥

The Papas family has been a fixture of the Greektown community for more than 40 years, having owned and operated Santorini Estiatorio, Mosaic, and of course, . Symposia is a departure from the classic Greek fare they鈥檙e known for (but not unprecedented with Athina Papas helming the globally inspired hot spot Mosaic a few years ago), and it brings different flavor profiles from across the Mediterranean, from Greece, Italy, and Spain to northern Africa.

Chef Elliot Patti, who oversees the menu and culinary team at Atheneum, says the goal is to showcase different flavors of the Mediterranean that people may not be as familiar with. For example, by using two types of harissa, he鈥檚 highlighting flavors from North Africa.

Olon Interior designed the restaurant, which evokes a Mediterranean landscape with a color palette of sea blue and white alongside elements of stone and wood. // Photograph by Gerard + Belevender.

鈥淢orocco has had a huge influence on the world 鈥 not only on the Mediterranean but the entire world because of the spice trade. 鈥 There鈥檚 a lot to the Mediterranean that I think gets passed over when we鈥檙e just serving up hummus, which I love. But there鈥檚 so much more to [Mediterranean food].鈥

His culinary resume spans pretty much every facet of the restaurant and hospitality industry, from working in acclaimed kitchens such as those at three-star Michelin restaurant in Chicago and Spago under Wolfgang Puck to being a private chef for the likes of Miley Cyrus and Barbra Streisand to serving thousands of meals through fine-dining catering company . He says these varying experiences have all culminated in the creation of Symposia鈥檚 menu.

Some of the signature dishes include roasted beets with whipped feta, pickled strawberry, and green harissa; Spanish octopus with romesco, Yukon potato, and chorizo Iberico; and Amish Half Bird, a playful take on Nashville hot chicken with harissa and creme fraiche.

There鈥檚 also the eye-catching briam, a casserole-like dish with tomato sauce and shingles of zucchini, potato, and onion accented with cinnamon, cumin, and oregano. It鈥檚 finished with cheese, parsley, and house-made preserved lemon. It looks like Remy鈥檚 ratatouille in the beloved Disney movie.

There are many personal touches on the menu. The pistachio torte on the dessert menu is an homage to Patti鈥檚 late father, who was Sicilian听and loved pistachios, and Patti always makes听sure there is a vegetarian dish on the menu for his mother in case she drops by from Hawaii (in addition to several vegetable dishes like the briam and roasted carrots, the olive oil cake with walnuts, orange, honey, and Greek yogurt has his mom鈥檚 name on it).

Symposia鈥檚 menu aims to showcase different flavors of the Mediterranean with dishes like briam, a vegetable casserole-like dish (top right). // Photograph by Gerard + Belevender

The wine list has been curated by Papas to match the fare.听鈥淲hen we looked at the list, we wanted it to听be really reflective of the menu,鈥 Papas says. 鈥淪o offering a lot of European wines, but also still offering some California favorites.鈥 The wine list highlights Spain and Greece, including a favorite of Papas鈥: Ktima Gerovassiliou Malagousia, a Greek white.

鈥淚t鈥檚 well rounded and has a balanced finish with a little bit of lemon peels and citrus in it. 鈥 It鈥檚 a really approachable wine, in the sense that it鈥檚 not too expensive [at $68 a bottle], but it鈥檚 something that鈥檚 different that you won鈥檛 see on every list.鈥

Papas says initially they thought about going in听a Greek direction with Symposia. 鈥淭here have been comments in the past about how Greektown isn鈥檛 Greek anymore. So that was a conversation in the back of our heads,鈥 Papas says. 鈥淏ut we also wanted to add something unique to the area and have a very creative dining experience. We鈥檙e really excited about offering [Symposia] to the people and also adding it to the list of restaurants that you can come and visit when you visit Greektown.鈥

Symposia is located inside of the 听补迟 . Visit听 for more information.听


This story is from the January 2023听issue of 糖心vlog安卓版. Read more in our digital edition.听